Saturday, September 27, 2008

Common Sense and Sensibility

Kids loose... everywhere

It's great to see children just walking around without their parents, crossing the street, going to the shops by themselves. In London, or England generally, kids aren't even allowed to play conkers without a safety harness for fear that some 'nut dust' might lodge in their larynx, causing them to trip and headbutt an old woman. As a capital city, it is refreshing to see that Tokyo hasn't descended into an almost masochistic cycle of risk-prevention.

Here in Tokyo, people hop off their bikes, leaving them where they stand, without fear of them being lifted. When they're on their bikes, people seem happy to ride anywhere that gets them to their destination, relying on common sense to prevent crashes with people. As such, the pavement is almost as busy as the road. "Surely not!" I hear you say. "There must be hundreds of people injured every day in such anarchy." Not at all. Thank goodness Tokyo allows people the freedom to use their own nouse.

Here you can drink in the streets, tubes, and trains. Despite thousands of people throwing themselves in front of trains every year (Tokyo does, after all, have one of the highest suicide rates in the world), no attempts have been made to make stations safer. In fact level crossings often have nothing but a gestural barrier that uselessly flops down when a train is passing, and most people I've seen are happy to start crossing the tracks even after the barriers have begun to lower. In my area of Tokyo there's a sword shop just down the road, yet there aren't hoardes of rampaging youths going round slashing each other to bits. How about the pedestrian crossings here, which all zig zag through each other in a manner that would give most risk-eliminators a heart attack?


Removing risk isn't the only way to prevent danger. More often than not, trusting in people not to do daft things like walk into the middle of a train track or cycle into your legs is enough. This is one of the qualities that Tokyo has immediately revealed in my two weeks here. More of the same please!





Friday, September 26, 2008

Beware the Anpan Man!!


Ok... so here in Japan they have the Anpanman. There are so many cultural oddities over here, all of which are utterly fascinating, some of which are quite surreal, but this was one of the first I encountered so I thought I'd quickly share it with you.


The Anpanman is made of bread. His face is very big and also made of bread. Whenever this big, smiling bread man meets an upset child, what does he do? He peels off a chunk of his face and gives it to him.


How great is that? Imagine if Ronald McDonald ripped out chunks of his hair to lightly toss into your salad, or if Captain Birdseye's beard were actually made of finely shredded cod which he then gave to those kids that always hung around his submarine.


The Anpanman... I love him already.

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Touch down!

Getting there

Ouch! What a journey. Definitely some good Deep Vein Thrombosis (always thought that sounded like a kind of cheese) potential there. The flight was cheap (Sri Lankan Airlines) but I understood why when the plane landed, took off again, and started taking me back in the direction I'd come from. We landed in Male, then went to Colombo, then from Colombo back to Male again, before finally heading to Tokyo. Worse still, the movie of choice was Indiana Jones IV. I had held out so long desperately trying not to see that movie, but give anyone 24 hours in a plane and they'd even watch National Treasure 2.

Arrived at the airport and got through the security bits fine. Then got the express train from Narita airport all the way to Ikebukuro. That was a great experience, watching the rice paddies slowly transform into the sprawling hive that is Tokyo, decked out in rainbow streaks of electronic signs that are so brilliant, you'd think you walked into a scene from Blade Runner while on an acid trip.

Then my luggage broke, and I had to navigate from Ikebukuro (north west chunky part of the city) to Oyama. Unfortunately this happened just as rush hour was kicking in, so I felt a bit of pressure to get a move on. I ought not to have worried though, because the thousands of Japanese who were coming back from work or university did not push or shove, or 'tut' when I accidentally got in their way. The whole thing was a smooth, albeit overcrowded, experience to the extent that you could believe it was orchestrated. If the London underground had to deal with this many people, I imagine the "Capital of the World" would collapse in less than a day, not to mention the murder rate would hit the roof.

Where I live

Amazing! Oyama (大山・おおやま/"or-yama") was some absolute nowhere, boring, non-happening place when I asked my students in London. I was convinced I was moving to some sort of hamlet, populated by a couple of Japanese outcasts; the Hull of Japan. Many of my students hadn't even heard of it. Yet Oyama, as I suspect most places in Tokyo are, is brilliant. Lots of bars/restaurants/Izakayas, and at night the place is lit up like a disco dream. There's a massive arcade which generates quite an impressive sonic wall when you walk past it, full as it is of youngsters playing a variety of crazy, garishly-coloured slot machines.

It's also very convenient (とても便利/べんり/benriですよ) as it's only a 4 minute ride into Ikebukuro, which I tried to explore but I was so jetlagged I fled, not wanting to exlore somewhere that overwhelmingly impressive when not totally compus mentis.But beware the perils of getting to Oyama. If anything teaches you the intricacies of the Japanese language, it's where I live now. Why? Because there is Oyama (pronounced "Or-yama") and there is also... Oyama. The difference being that in Japanese the first Oyama is written おおやま and the second is written with just one お、so it's おやま。

"or-yama" おおやま・大山Big mountain
"o-yama" おやま・小山Little Mountain

So beware!! Fortunately I got to the correct Oyama, but one of my flatmates, who's pretty savvy, went to the wrong Oyama which is some two hours outside of central Japan. Poor dude!

Anyway, I got here, it's great, and I'm alive. My flatmates are also an amazingly cool bunch. There're Japanese, Koreans and two American dudes living here. Great stuff!

Now I shall have to get exploring!
sayounara
さようなら^v^